2 weeks ago, I was packed full with anticipation and joy to return to Boracay, the island of paradise. Awaiting to sink my toes into the powdery white sand and swim in the clear blue waters. To relive those wonderfully peaceful days where touts were rare, and quaint snack shops line the beach with the occasional large hotel sprouting out of nowhere.
Alas, those were left to my memories. Yes, the water is still clear, and the sand is still fine. But you can almost feel the difference to the texture of the sand, and those are not “White” anymore. Blame the uprising tourism industry here.
The noticeable change started at Manila airport. The plane to Caticlan which used to have only 3 passengers is now full. Upon setting foot onto Caticlan airport, the first change I noticed was there was organisation in the tricycles waiting to fetch tourists to the jetty. They were lined up at the ticketing booth waiting for passengers. At the jetty, the bancas were packed full with passengers. This was a huge difference compared to just 2 years ago when the only passengers on the boat were just 3 of us travellers there.
Finally set foot on Boracay. As usual, tricycles and vehicles are only allowed at the backlane behind the beach. But the beachfront is now lined full with businesses. Restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, dive shops, hotels, resorts….now I’m starting to rejoice we did our project 2 years ago instead of now. If not we would have spent one whole week jotting down the number of businesses here.
The biggest change would be the number of tourists flocking here. Now it’s not just the Koreans, but the Taiwanese that are dominating the tourist scene here. As a lone traveler and diner at all restaurants, I can’t help but wince at the behaviour of these tourists. Yes, I can’t expect them all to behave like ethical tourists, but you should really look at them. Talking loudly, smoking like chimneys, basically acting like hooligans. There seem to be a lost peace and innocence around here.
The locals also seem to be less friendly, raising their guards against tourists. I see so many more ang mohs with filipino escort ladies, it’s really making me cringe. Public displays of affections can be seen in broad daylight on the beach.
The seascape is definitely still amazing, with clear blue waters and sky. However, the increased number of sailboats and motorboats blocking the horizon is quite a pain. No more postcard like photos from the whitebeach. Probably need to spend some money to a more remote beach.
The sand along white beach which used to be so soft you will sink walking along it has become rather dense and coarse. Really sad to see this happening. Those amazing Boracay sandcastles still exist (which require a small donation if you want to take a photo of it), but now there are new sand patterns built into the sand with dug out holes for lanterns. A beautiful sight, but behind it, are these children working hard at making more of these sand patterns. These children will come up to you with those pitiful innocent looks, saying “Donations please?”. I can’t help but give in. But these are the ugly sides to the rise of tourism here.
At night, the island comes alive with it’s well known discos and parties. Loud music booms, beautiful people start pouring out from their hotels. Gone is the peace at night when you just want to sit by the beach and listen to the soothing waves hitting against the shore.
Yes, tourism has definitely provided more local employment, but at what risks and sacrifices? Local innocence and charm, ecological harm just to state a few.
Oh well, perhaps it’s time to go look for a new beach or island with less commercialisation.
